St. Stephen's Cathedral in Vienna

St. Stephen's Cathedral in Vienna is a reassuring presence for everyone who arrives in Vienna for the first time: its towers are visible from much of the historic center, and following them with your gaze is the easiest way to return to the center. Speaking of the center: if you take a photo of Vienna from above, you will notice that St. Stephen's Cathedral is located right at the geometric center of the city. Building on this site had very important symbolic value: it meant that Vienna was the center of the Habsburg Empire and that the Catholic religion was in turn the center of Vienna and the Empire.

Masterpieces are not created in a day, and St. Stephen's Cathedral is no exception: construction began in the 12th century, and after a tumultuous journey, it has reached us, passing through Romanesque style (pagan towers), Gothic (nave, spires), Renaissance (dome), and Baroque (part of the interiors).

The last major challenge was overcome in 1945, after the bombing of Vienna with the burning of the roof and the falling of the Pummerin bell. The perspective of the square does not do justice to the majesty of the architecture: to realize how difficult it is to capture it all in a single photo, either take a walk around the church before entering to explore the cathedral.

The 250,000 colored tiles are a touch of 'Mediterranean' in the heart of Europe and give the cathedral a less austere appearance. The tiles represent the three coats of arms of Austria, Vienna, and the Habsburg dynasty. The two dates (1831 and 1950) indicate the year the coats of arms were added to the roof and the year of restoration after World War II.

The entrance to the cathedral is through the Giants' Portal, named so because during the construction work, a mammoth bone was found that the Viennese believed belonged to one of the giants who drowned during the Great Flood. The two towers are referred to as 'The Pagans': according to some, to remember that in this very location, before the cathedral, there were pagan temples, according to others, because they closely resemble Muslim minarets.

The Viennese affectionately call it Steffl (Stefanino) and at 136 meters tall, it is a constant landmark in the cityscape. By tackling the 340 steps on foot, one can reach (albeit with difficulty) the platform at 76 meters, which offers a panoramic view of Vienna's rooftops that fully rewards the effort.

The North Tower, known as Adlerturm or Eagle Tower, is located on the opposite side of the cathedral and remained unfinished until they decided to cover it with a Renaissance dome. Here, the climb is easier thanks to the fast elevator, but those who love a challenge can choose to tackle the 343 steps. On this tower hangs the Pummerin, the largest bell in Austria made from the cannons of the defeated Turks during the Siege of Vienna in 1683.

Upon entering, one is a bit stunned by the grandeur and the myriad of things to see. Statues of saints, altars, canopies, chapels vie for the visitor's attention. The visit can begin from the first chapel on the left, the Tirnkapelle, which has a crucifix that, according to legend, grows a beard. To the right of the entrance is the Eligiuskapelle, featuring a statue of the Madonna revered by Empress Maria Theresa.

Along the pillars of the central nave, there are several altars and pulpits: the most important work is located on the first pillar on the left. It is the Pilgramkanzel, the pulpit in Flemish Gothic style adorned with portraits of the four Church Fathers, created by sculptor Anton Pilgram in 1514. A uniqueness is the dual self-portrait of the artist peering out the window, watching his work (found on the bottom right of the column and on the bottom left of the wall).

In the middle of the cathedral, there is access to the Adlertum to visit the Pummerin, followed closely by the Barbarakapelle, containing a reliquary with ashes from the Auschwitz concentration camp. From here, access to the catacombs of the cathedral is possible.

Immediately near the entrance and the Eligiuskapelle is the icon of the Madonna of Tears, the most revered sacred image by the people of Vienna.

The most important work of St. Stephen's Cathedral is located in this part of the church: it is the red marble cenotaph of Emperor Frederick III, one of the most significant examples of Dutch Gothic. Unfortunately, the choir is the part of the cathedral that suffered the most from the bombings in 1945, and many of the pre-existing works were destroyed.

From the left transept, one can access the catacombs, which over the centuries have served as burial places for cardinals, bishops, many members of the Habsburg family, dukes, and other nobles, ordinary priests, and about 16,000 Viennese who died from the plague and other misfortunes. The catacombs run beneath the square of the cathedral and served as an air raid shelter during the war.

Standing in front of the cathedral entrance: to the left, attached to the wall, are two iron bars. They served as a unit of measurement for fabrics sold in the market square to prevent merchants from cheating. To the right, there is an engraving in the wall covered by a glass plate: the numbers 05 are a sign of rebellion from the Austrians against Nazi occupation. 0 stands for O and 5 for the fifth letter of the alphabet, E. Together they form OE, the initial sound of the word Österreich (Austria), which the Nazis prohibited from use during the annexation.

Opening hours: daily from 6 AM to 10 PM. Sunday from 7 AM to 10 PM.

Ticket:

Entry is free, but during religious services, access is limited to the initial part of the cathedral. There are various guided tour options, and prices vary based on choices, age, and number of participants. Guided tour costs €5.

How to get there:

Metro: Lines U1, U3.

Bus: Lines 1A, 3A.