The Capital's Transformation: Kabul's New Decadence
By Nick Meo
The old man in a turban stared in disbelief at the row of Land Cruisers parked in a smart Kabul street, their drivers waiting for the partygoers in the house where Madonna blared out. The imported alcohol and scandalous dancing, men and women together, could not be seen from the street, but Afghans have a pretty good idea about what happens on the foreigners’ weekend party circuit and lurid imagination fills in the gaps.
From Taliban Control to Expat Playground
Plenty of Afghans are going to the parties too, or throwing their own, and it’s a far cry from the Taliban days when fun was banned and you could be jailed for watching a smuggled Bollywood video. But with the fundamentalists long gone and thousands of well-heeled foreign aid workers and ex-pat Afghans moved in, Kabul has been transformed from dusty backwater to wild party town – for those with the cash to enjoy it.
The Divide Between Capital and Country
The growing gap between capital and country was starkly underlined this week in a report by Human Rights Watch, who bluntly said US-backed gunmen have hijacked the country outside Kabul and created a climate of fear. Straw didn’t see this, and sure enough Kabul is doing very nicely. Centre of this glittering new world is the exclusive suburb of Wazir Akbar Khan, once home to senior al-Qaeda men and almost untouched by years of fighting that left much of the city scarred.
Opulence in Wazir Akbar Khan
Roomy houses with big leafy gardens are seeing a London-style property price boom and it’s also home to the hottest restaurant of the moment, the Lau Thai, run by enterprising Thais with branches in East Timor and Kosovo. The restaurant has been such a success, replacing last year’s favourite B’s Place, that the family is planning to set up next in Baghdad. But if its tables are fully booked there’s Italian, Chinese, Indian or German to choose from or a steak and a few beers at the Mustapha Hotel’s new bar, the first to open in two decades.
Party Scene and Economic Boom
The international set in Kabul head out to party in the expensive mansions they have taken out on long leases, jamming streets with cars and blasting out music until late. Afghans are so shocked that frequent warning memos have to be sent out by the UN begging party goers to tone down the wild behaviour. Afghan parties may be tamer, but plenty of Kabulis are joining in the fun. Every Friday an exodus heads out of town on picnics, banned by the Taliban and merchants and landlords are prospering.
The Dark Reality Outside Kabul's Glamour
Rise of Warlords and Worsening Human Rights Situation
Rape, robbery, and murder are common in the Pushtun lands near Kabul where US troops are still based, according to researchers for the Human Rights Watch report, Killing You is Very Easy For Us. These abuses are being committed by gunmen and warlords who were propelled into power by the United States and its coalition partners after the Taliban fell in 2001.
Challenges in Afghanistan's Recovery
The return of the warlords poses frightening political consequences for Afghanistan. The United States and United Kingdom, in particular, need to decide whether they are with President Karzai and other reformers or with the warlords. The longer they wait, the more difficult it will be to loosen the warlords’ grip on power.
Continued Fear and Vulnerability
While Kabulis enjoy the safety and prosperity of the capital, the chaos and human rights abuses persist outside the city limits, creating a stark disparity. The partygoers may feel current security, but they also know that Afghanistan's troubled history may catch up with them eventually.
Hotels in Kabul and their Role
The Mustapha Hotel: A Symbol of Progress
The Mustapha Hotel's opening of a new bar after two decades signifies the changing times in Kabul. The restoration of a social gathering place provides a sense of normalcy and showcases the city's renewed vibrancy. The presence of hotels like Mustapha Hotel also contributes to the growth of the local economy as visitors and expats require accommodation.
Catering to Diverse Tastes
As Kabul attracts a growing number of international visitors and aid workers, the demand for various cuisines and accommodations has increased. From popular restaurants like Lau Thai, offering international flavors, to the rise of Italian, Chinese, Indian, and German dining options, the city's dining scene is adapting to meet the preferences of its diverse residents and visitors.
Symbolism of Hotel Development
The construction of luxury hotels, such as the upcoming five-star hotel owned by the defense minister, Marshall Fahim, symbolizes the city's progress and its potential as a tourist destination. These hotels not only provide jobs but also attract investment and contribute to the overall development of Kabul. Despite the challenges faced by the country, the hospitality industry in Kabul shows promising signs of growth.