Golden Lane in Prague

Even though Golden Lane (Zlata ulicka) in Prague is now overrun with tourists posing for photos and souvenir shops, this corner of the Castle, with its low, colorful houses, retains its charm, especially when one reads its centuries-old and legendary history closely. According to legend, Emperor Rudolph authorized the construction of houses in this part of the castle for 24 archers and their families.

It was an ideal way to defend the castle walls, but there were too many people for too little space, so the houses were built to make use of every available centimeter. Low, with tiny windows and dwarf-sized doors, they are pressed against each other, leaving no space wasted. This is why today Golden Lane looks more like a dollhouse than a place for men. However, Rudolph's interest in Golden Lane went beyond state reasons. In the same houses, Rudolph authorized the workshops of alchemists who sought the elixir of eternal life and the formula to turn metals into gold for him.

Rudolph II was an enthusiast of alchemy and invited the top European experts of the time to the castle, although the name of the lane is more due to the goldsmiths who settled there in the 16th century than to the alchemists.

Over the centuries, the promiscuity of Golden Lane has never sat well with the nuns of the nearby St. George's Convent, so much so that in the 18th century they convinced Queen Maria Theresa to intervene to reduce the human presence in the Lane. The remaining inhabitants were obliged to renovate the houses and make them more pleasant, even aesthetically, starting the tradition of painting them in bright and vivid colors.

In the 1800s, Golden Lane became the street of artists, and even Franz Kafka lived at No. 22 for a few years during World War I. In the years around 1950, the houses were nationalized and completely renovated, giving Golden Lane the appearance it has now.

The visit to Golden Lane begins right at the White Tower, which can be accessed immediately after entering Golden Lane. The tower, which served defensive functions, now houses an armory with original medieval weapons and some replicas for sale at a souvenir shop.

The corridor that passes over the houses with the arrow slits from which the archers had a view of the castle's drop is quite interesting. Right below the White Tower is the perfectly preserved house of an alchemist-goldsmith-chemist.

Between 1916 and 1917, during the height of World War I, Franz Kafka lived with his beloved sister in this tiny house at No. 22 on Golden Lane. It is always emotional to enter this pale blue cottage that today houses a shop selling the writer's books.

At number 14 is one of the most beautiful and emotional houses in Golden Lane: here lived 'Madame de Thebes', a tarot card reader famous throughout Prague, before World War II. A widow of a pharmacist, she waited for 30 years for the return of her son from World War I. Every day she prepared food and made the bed, hoping to see him appear at any moment. 'Madame de Thebes' received letters from all over the world from people eager to discover their future. When she predicted the end of World War II with the defeat of the Nazis, she was arrested by the Gestapo and tortured to death.

At the end of Golden Lane is the house of Joseph Kazda, a wonderful archive of vintage films and a small screening room with a few seats and an adjoining kitchen. Kazda loved both Czech and American cinema, collecting films and posters. Thanks to this passion, many Czechoslovak films were saved from destruction intended by the Nazis. He founded his own distribution company and when he finished work, he rented various spaces for the preservation of films: one of these was the little house on Golden Lane where he prepared a small screening room with a kitchen in which he allegedly made a wonderful soup for his guests.

Exiting Golden Lane, at the bottom of the stairs is access to the other tower. Dalibor Tower is famous for the sad story of Dalibor, a defender of the peasants who was imprisoned and sentenced to death. During the long years of waiting for execution, he learned to play the violin, whose notes spread daily throughout the castle. The Prague residents became so attached to Dalibor that the authorities did not dare to announce the day of execution: the Prague residents only noticed it when they no longer heard him play. Today the tower hosts some torture instruments, and it is still possible to see the trapdoor where prisoners were segregated.

Golden Lane is located in Prague Castle, the largest in the world covering an area of 70 km². To access Golden Lane, the houses, and the two towers, a ticket for the castle is required. Prices start at 250 crowns (10 euros) and the hours are from 10 AM to 6 PM. For more information, visit the page Prague Castle.