Introduction
Don't be misled by Certaldo Bassa, which is a recent and modern town with all the aesthetic limitations of a place filled with concrete houses and cars. Take the funicular and ascend to Certaldo Alto. Here, time has stood still and the village, protected by three gates, has remained largely unchanged since the time of Boccaccio, who was born, lived, and died here.
We are in the province of Florence, in the Valdelsa, not far from Siena and San Gimignano, in that Tuscany rich in art, nature, and culture. Certaldo is famous worldwide for its practically intact medieval historic center that unfolds along a single main street (Via Boccaccio) without any large squares.
The Palazzo Pretorio of Certaldo
At the end of Via Boccaccio, the main street of Certaldo Alta, there is the Palazzo Pretorio, the most important monument of the village. It is recognizable from afar due to the staircase, the terracotta façade, and most of all, the large number of coats of arms, some of which are of significant value. Built towards the end of the 12th century as the residence of the Alberti Counts, it has undergone many changes: since 1420, it has housed the Vicar of Florence, which explains the loggia on the steps. From here, the Florentine magistrate could address the assembled crowd below. Stripped of furnishings during the French Revolution, it has belonged to the municipality since the late 1800s, which has restored it. Today, it is a museum. Visiting the Palazzo is like embarking on a journey through medieval justice: you pass through the hearing rooms (with the admonition to judges to listen to all but trust very little), the Torture Rooms where people were tortured, the Chapel where the condemned prayed on their last night, and the Prison where they served their sentences.
Visitor Information
Opening hours: high season (April / October): Every day: 9:30 AM - 1:30 PM / 2:30 PM - 7:00 PM Low season (November / March): Every day: 9:30 AM - 1:30 PM / 2:30 PM - 4:30 PM. Closed on Tuesdays
COMBINED TICKET FOR MUSEUM SYSTEM For entrance to two museums (Palazzo Pretorio and Casa Boccaccio) FULL PRICE: €4.00 per person REDUCED PRICE: €3.00 per person For entrance to three museums (Palazzo Pretorio, Casa Boccaccio, Sacred Art Museum) FULL PRICE: €6.00 per person REDUCED PRICE: €4.00 per person
Ex Church of Saints Thomas and Prosper
Next to the Palazzo Pretorio is the Church of Saints Thomas and Prosper, featuring an extraordinary fresco cycle by Benozzo Gozzoli. The church has a single nave with a simple gabled roof, and all attention is focused on Benozzo Gozzoli's artwork. Originally, the frescoes were located in the Tabernacle of the Condemned, a small brick building (now somewhat destroyed) located outside the walls of Certaldo near the Agliena stream along the Via Francigena. The artwork dates from around 1465, but it was only detached from the original Tabernacle in 1957 to be reconstructed in the church. In Certaldo Bassa, there is another church with the same name that today houses the Crucifix from the 14th century, venerated by Blessed Giulia, who was hosted here until the 19th century.
Church of Saints Jacopo and Filippo
This church houses the remains of Giovanni Boccaccio, who was born in Certaldo and spent most of his life here. Beneath the large white marble slab, the remains of the writer are not actually found; they are located a bit further along, beneath a small white tile. The church also contains the remains of Blessed Giulia, the patron saint of Certaldo. There are several interesting artworks, including a Madonna of the Snow attributed to Giovanni della Robbia and his workshop. The "main attraction" of the church is the Crucifix of Patrignano or San Donnino. Made around 1240, it is a very large wooden sculpture (2.20 x 2.05) by an unknown artist. It is a "triumphans" crucifix where Jesus has his eyes wide open, indicating his triumph over death. The church also has a cloister that leads to the Sacred Art Museum of Certaldo.
The House of Boccaccio
A visit to the house of Giovanni Boccaccio is more of a necessary homage than a way to discover where the poet lived. The house was destroyed during a bombing in World War II and the one visible today is only a fairly faithful reconstruction of the original. Inside, there is a fresco depicting Boccaccio (1820). Since September 2008, the Casa del Boccaccio Museum has hosted a collection of theatrical costumes worn by female figures portrayed in the tales of the Decameron. Today, it is the headquarters of the National Giovanni Boccaccio Institute.
Visitor Information
Opening hours: high season (April / October): Every day: 9:30 AM - 1:30 PM / 2:30 PM - 7:00 PM Low season (November / March): Every day: 9:30 AM - 1:30 PM / 2:30 PM - 4:30 PM. Closed on Tuesdays
COMBINED TICKET FOR MUSEUM SYSTEM For entrance to two museums (Palazzo Pretorio and Casa Boccaccio) FULL PRICE: €4.00 per person REDUCED PRICE: €3.00 per person For entrance to three museums (Palazzo Pretorio, Casa Boccaccio, Sacred Art Museum) FULL PRICE: €6.00 per person REDUCED PRICE: €4.00 per person