What to See in Campello sul Clitunno: The Springs and the Castle

Campello sul Clitunno is a sort of mirage that appears to the traveler navigating the Flaminia road near Spoleto.

As the signs indicate the arrival to this small Umbrian municipality, the landscape becomes more shaded, almost mountainous. On one side of the road, a frame of trees covers springs of deep green that flow gently amidst little bridges, green islets, and quaint restaurants overlooking the water. We are at the Fonti del Clitunno, a mythical place where, according to the Romans, the god Clitunno resided.

A place that has inspired poets and common people alike, from Pliny the Elder to Carducci. If one raises their eyes from the springs, they will see the Castle of Campello Alta emerge from the green hills, a fortification that immediately evokes medieval fantasies, sieges, and lives from another time.

The Springs and the Castle are two great reasons to dedicate a day to this piece of Umbria, which remains hidden from many and is therefore perfectly preserved. Here are our recommendations for what to see in Campello sul Clitunno.

Pliny the Younger, the Latin writer and naturalist, wrote, "Have you ever seen the sources of the Clitunno? If not, and I believe you haven't, otherwise you would have spoken about it, go see them. I saw them recently and I regret having done so too late." He was just the first of a long line of poets inspired by the emerald springs. In 1910, Giosuè Carducci traveled to Spoleto with the goal of visiting these mythical springs, to which he dedicated "The Ode to the Springs of the Clitunno."

But what is so special about these springs? They are formed by underground springs that emerge through water springs from the bottom of the pond, creating a very green mirror of water.

Depending on the day, the season, and the area, the colors change, creating an extraordinarily picturesque landscape. This is contributed to by the plant species that live at the bottom of the pond, the willows and poplars surrounding the banks, and the swans that glide gracefully, carried by the current.

An truly enchanted place, where silence reigns, interrupted only by the sound of flowing water and the rustling of trees.

The springs can be accessed from several points along the Flaminia, all corresponding to bars and restaurants. The most picturesque point is that which coincides with the Bar Restaurant "Le Fonti del Clitunno." Here, entrance is paid, but it's worth it.

**Hours: **9:00 AM - 1:30 PM and 2:00 PM - 4:30 PM Ticket price: 3 €.

The Fonti del Clitunno are a mythical place since ancient times. The Romans honored Jupiter Clitunno with summer festivals known as "Clitunnali" and had dedicated a temple to the god.

At the site where this pagan temple once stood, the Lombards built a new temple using the remnants of the Roman villas that were located on the hills around Spoleto. The Temple on the Clitunno is now a church dedicated to San Salvatore and is one of the most beautiful, unique, and fascinating religious buildings in Italy.

First of all, it is very small, accommodating a maximum of 3 people; then it overlooks the springs that flow just beyond; lastly, viewed from the outside with its portico and three columns, it deceives visitors into thinking it is a pagan temple that has withstood the centuries. Instead, it is a Christian church included in the list of 7 Lombard monuments protected by UNESCO, divided among Benevento, Cividale del Friuli, Brescia, Spoleto, and Monte Sant'Angelo in Gargano.

Inside, there are some Christian-themed frescoes (Christ blessing, St. Peter, St. Paul, Angels with gemmed Cross) painted around the 8th century AD. Also, the small niche at the center of the tiny apse reuses some sculptures from the 1st century AD.

**Hours: **Open from Thursday to Sunday from 10:00 AM to 3:00 PM Ticket price: 3 €.

It is truly worth the 8 kilometers drive from the Clitunno springs to the Castle of Campello Alta. The fortified village emerges among the olive groves with walls that immediately evoke medieval settings and stories of knights and ladies.**

The village has only one entrance, can be explored in a few minutes, and is almost deserted. Almost entirely transformed into a relais, the silence is interrupted only by the footsteps of the few adventurous tourists or one of the few remaining residents.

The castle was founded around the middle of the 10th century by Rovero di Champeaux, from which the family of the Counts of Campello would later descend and rule the Castle for centuries. A family that was always opposed to the Church, they earned the trust of Frederick I, II, and Henry IV, which led Pope Honorius to label the Campellos as "Sons of the Devil." The village as we see it today reflects what remains after the destruction ordered in 1326 by the Spoleto native Pietro Pianciani.

The most representative buildings of the village are the Entrance Gate to the village, the Church of San Donato from the 1500s, the public building, and the 25-meter bell tower. It is actually a former medieval tower later restored during the Baroque period. Damaged by the earthquake, it is not open for visits but houses a wooden altar, the baptismal font, an organ from the 1800s, and various frescoes from the 15th century.

Continuing on the Flaminia toward Spoleto, attention is soon drawn to another village perched along the hills: it is the Castle of Pissignano, which is part of the municipality of Campello but has always been a separate village.

The Castle of Pissignano is a vertical village, with a tall tower at the top and a cluster of houses cascading down like a waterfall toward the plain.

Viewed from above, it has a triangular shape and has been there for over 1,000 years. The only noteworthy monuments are the Town Hall and the Church of San Benedetto, which was devastated like the entire village by French troops in 1799. Due to its isolated and hard-to-reach position, it served as a concentration camp during the fascist era.

Don't be surprised if someone refers to Pissignano by the name Lizori: in the 1970s, a massive restoration and recovery project was initiated under the guidance of architect Paolo Portoghesi and artist Antonio Meneghetti.

The village, recovered inch by inch, has been transformed into a symbolic place for art, culture, and reflection on themes of ecology and sustainability.

The name Lizori was chosen by combining three words: "Lì" (adverb of place) "Zo" (etymon of the Greek verb to live) and "Ri" (from ancient Greek, orao meaning to see). The meaning is "LIZORI: Where life sees, where life contemplates."

Today, Lizori is not just a restored village: it is a center for cultural and artistic promotion, hosting international events, conferences, spiritual retreats, and workshops. The village retains its ancient charm, with narrow stone alleys, restored medieval houses, and breathtaking views.

Directly at the Fonti del Clitunno, there are several restaurants with a view of the water. The most popular restaurant for view and cuisine is "Le Fonti del Clitunno," which offers tables with direct views of the springs. From here, you can also access the park of the springs with a ticket of 3 €.

The cuisine is typically from Spoleto with farro soup, especially in winter, and lentils are two ancient peasant dishes. Perhaps the most famous Umbrian dish is strangozzi, thick and hearty fresh pasta, which can be served "alla spoletina" with a spicy garlic and tomato sauce or in the classic version with truffles or wild asparagus.

We are far from the sea, so the fish most often found on the table is baccalà alla spoletina, that is, stewed cod.

Among the savory pies, in Spoleto, you can enjoy Fojata, rolled like a strudel and filled with vegetables and cheese, then baked. A very particular dish is the Parmigiana di gobbi, which consists of cardoons prepared with tomato sauce and parmesan.

Of course, meat of all kinds, DOP oil, and an endless wine list abound.